As we head into 2023, we asked winemakers from across the country to share their hopes for the coming year — and delineate what challenges lie ahead. Due to an overwhelming number of responses, comments have been split into two articles. The first installment appeared on the WIA site on Monday, January 2.
Question: What do you see having the biggest impact on your job in 2023?
Mark Beaman, Sebastiani
In 2023, my biggest challenges will relate to the fluctuations in case sales, combined with the challenge of maintaining profitable margins with rising costs of materials and additives.
Tony Biagi, Hourglass Wines, Olema, Amici Cellars and Patria
Ongoing supply chain issues and the slowing of the economy are my biggest concerns for 2023.
Laura Díaz Muñoz, Ehlers Estate
I’m keeping my eye on grape prices next year. Due to the extensive replanting in our Estate vineyards, we’ll have to source fruit from outside growers. Prices and farming practices from outside growers are my main concern, as I’d like to find long-term partners with a similar vision and care for growing quality. I’m also a bit concerned about labor, especially during harvest time, as it’s extremely important to be able to pick at the right time.
Jonathan Ducourt, Europvin portfolio
The biggest impact for us will be how to manage the high cost production increases that we have been facing for the last 18 months — and that seem to get worse — with keeping our wines at a good value price point for our distributors and consumers in order not to lose the position we managed to win after years of patient efforts.
We also face more and more supply issues for our bottles and capsules, specially on non-standard formats (such as half bottles, white bottles, magnums, etc). We are starting to think about having a person full-time in the team responsible for buying. It used to be simple and quick, but now it is long and complicated.
International trade has become increasingly challenging with higher costs, delays for shipping our wines and political decisions that are affecting our business. China used to be a profitable market; not anymore. The UK decided to freeze duty increases until August next year. Will there be taxes again on French wine in the United States? We can always adapt, but we can’t predict anymore how things will go — for better or worse.
Amanda Gorter, Robert Hall Winery, Charles Woodson’s Intercept
We expect similar factors to impact us as in the last few years. There will likely be some issues finding full-time and seasonal harvest team members, and we’re also concerned with the effects that changes in the weather and water availability will have on the grapes.
Avery Heelan, Larkmead Vineyards
For 2023, I see the biggest challenges continuing to revolve around the warming climate. We continue, year over year, to learn more about precision farming Cabernet Sauvignon as the vines continue to experience more stress from heat and drought. I expect this pursuit of experimentation and adaptation to continue to challenge our team and community. Although challenging, I do believe we understand more about our vineyard than we ever have and continue to make some of the best expressions of our site to-date.
Randy Herron, CK Mondavi & Family, Flat Top Hills
In the coming year, I think supply chain issues (specifically, supplies and shipping lead times) will continue to impact our industry. I’m also paying close attention to the environment — drought in particular.
Maya Hood White, Early Mountain Vineyards
Since 2020, we’ve been expecting supply and packaging challenges; toward the end of 2022, we really began to see these delays or obstacles in supplies manifest. I expect them to extend through 2023. We’re lucky that we’ve had the ability to plan for needs significantly in advance, but we also recognize the need for adaptability.
More broadly, as with every vintage in Virginia, the weather always has the biggest impact on both my day-to-day decisions and the overall growing season. I’m superstitious and, therefore, hesitate to mention that we’ve consistently had notable vintages in odd years … though, this makes me hopeful for the year to come (naturally, with fingers crossed!).
Julie Kuhlken, Pedernales Cellars
The biggest impact is going to come from a likely return to normal traffic in our Texas Hill Country tasting room after several rocky years of plummeting (2020) and skyrocketing (2021) traffic.
2022 was down, relative to pre-pandemic 2019, but we expect a return to the expected curve in 2023. Traffic was down in Hill Country hospitality across the board — hotels, restaurants, AirBnbs, shops and wineries.
We believe we’ve seen a rubber band effect: In 2021, traffic in the Hill Country skyrocketed because it was perceived as a safe, driving destination. Then in 2022, as air travel roared back, people made that [often international] trip that they hadn’t been able to make for two years rather than come to the Hill Country. The belief (and hope) is that this seesaw movement in traffic flows will even out in 2023 and return to the long-term trend, which has been upward.
The price of gas going up mid-year didn’t help, of course. People had booked their plane tickets before the gas prices went up, and so didn’t pay for the spike traveling by air, but they could see it at the pump which was bad for a driving destination like the Hill Country.
Angelina Mondavi, C. Mondavi & Family
Outside factors will be (and have been) the biggest impact. We are tracking the continued, looming effect of price increases for all cost of goods, shipping and the tardiness of delivery of supplies.
Cara Morrison, Sonoma-Cutrer
Demand! Sonoma-Cutrer’s Russian River Ranches Chardonnay is blended for restaurants and our Sonoma Coast Chardonnay for retail stores. Ever since COVID, demand for retail and restaurants has fluctuated so much, it’s hard to know how much to blend and bottle for each label. With supply chain issues, we need to purchase labels, closures, etc. far in advance. It’s a guessing game and I’m hoping that in 2023, demand will become more predictable.
Ryan Prichard, Three Sticks Wines
As a winemaker, we are most impacted by the whims of Mother Nature. Frost, rain, floods, heat, fire and the timing of these events can turn a seemingly great year into one with immense challenges.
Sarah Quider, Foley Family Wines
Like many companies, global supply chain challenges are still impacting Foley Family Wines as winemaking supplies are delayed on multiple levels. From barrels, harvest supplies and winemaking equipment, to bottling supplies. In 2023, planning with long lead times will help resolve some of the issues, but having a backup plan will be instrumental as well.
Bill Sanchez, Potter’s Vineyard
As winemakers at a very small vineyard and winery, we are seeing new technology for the small winery as having the biggest impact in 2023. We now have new technologies in organic spray products and grape and wine analysis tools that are practical, affordable and game changing for small producers like us. In the lab, I’m now using a new device (similar to a blood glucose monitor) that can analyze free sulfites, malic acid and glucose directly from the barrel.
Bob Young, M.D., Bending Branch Winery
Weather extremes and climate change impact Texas vineyards, and the resulting quantity and quality yields impact our winemaking.
Question: What are you most looking forward to in 2023?
Mark Beaman, Sebastiani
Positive consumer response to the 2021 Sebastiani wines. Also, restarting Sebastaini’s legacy consumer events.
Tony Biagi, Hourglass Wines, Olema, Amici Cellars and Patria
I’m most excited to finally be able to release my 2021 vintage wines to both my mailing list and my small group of distributors nationwide. The 2020 fires left us with no red wine to sell in 2022, so I’m really looking forward to being able to get Patria out there again!
Laura Díaz Muñoz, Ehlers Estate
I’m excited about our estate vineyard replanting. It makes me feel optimistic and committed with the future of the estate. The first block planted gave us some fruit in 2022 and the quality observed is very promising.
Jonathan Ducourt, Europvin portfolio
People will discover white Bordeaux is actually delicious and offers a great alternative for Sauvignon Blanc lovers. People will also rediscover red Bordeaux doesn’t need to be expensive and can instead offer superb value. Finally, I look forward to traveling again, more normally, to visit our distributors around the world and organize events.
Amanda Gorter, Robert Hall Winery, Charles Woodson’s Intercept
In 2023, I’m looking forward to learning new things, making great wine, participating in another harvest and a chance to make and strengthen industry connections.
Avery Heelan, Larkmead Vineyards
I’m incredibly excited to bottle the 2021 vintage. It will be my third vintage at Larkmead Vineyards but my first as head winemaker. The 2021 vintage was small yielding but some of the best quality I’ve seen across Napa Valley. I’m incredibly excited to bottle these wines and share them with customers for many years to come.
Randy Herron, CK Mondavi & Family, Flat Top Hills
I’m looking forward to a full year with no impact from COVID, and everybody returning back to the rhythm of work and life.
Maya Hood White, Early Mountain Vineyards
The 2022 harvest was, in many ways, one of our most rewarding, as we had hired a largely green team — but one that we were able to solidify at year’s end. I’m excited to watch this team grow along with our longtime Vineyard Manager Dustin Wade and newly appointed Assistant Winemaker Jeremy Mersch.
Julie Kuhlken, Pedernales Cellars
In 2023, Pedernales Cellars is looking forward to the first harvest from its replanted estate vineyard in the Texas Hill Country, Kuhlken Vineyards. We’ve replanted our stalwarts of Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, Grenache, Mourvedre, Tinta Amarela and Sangiovese. And we’ve added Graciano, Alicante Bouschet, Teroldego and Petite Sirah to the mix.
We’re probably most excited about having estate Graciano, since it’s become an integral part of our Tempranillo program. We’re also keen to work with more Teroldego since, as a lesser known variety, it’s relatively sparsely planted in Texas and, hence, hard to source from other vineyards.
Angelina Mondavi, C. Mondavi & Family
On a positive note, I am most looking forward to bottling the 2021 and blending 2022 wines. Both years were great quality and very unique vintages.
Cara Morrison, Sonoma-Cutrer
Besides skiing and my Hawaiian vacation plans? Seriously, I love tasting the Chardonnays as they age in-barrel and improve in spring, putting a new vintage into bottle this summer, and a new harvest in fall. I love the seasonality of winemaking and feel so grateful to make my 19th vintage of wine at Sonoma-Cutrer. I may sound cheesy, but it’s the truth.
Ryan Prichard, Three Sticks Wines
I’m looking forward to a year with no COVID impact, perfect weather and strong demand for wines. Is that too much to ask?
Sarah Quider, Foley Family Wines
I’m looking forward to easing out of the impact of COVID-19 pandemic even more than we did in 2022. We have fully opened and enhanced our guest experience centers with elevated activities, culinary offerings and, of course, some beautiful wines to share.
Bill Sanchez, Potter’s Vineyard
With [newly added harvest and winemaking] technologies, we’re looking forward to making better wine and improving the direct to consumer experience.
Bob Young, M.D., Bending Branch Winery
I’m looking forward to the continued growth in production of bold Texas red wines, including our first production of Charbono from the Texas Hill Country. We’re also increasing the sparkling wines that we’re producing; both the volume and varieties are increasing. Finally, my Kentucky heritage and interest in bourbon make me enthusiastic about bourbon barrel-aged red wines. It’s very common for bourbon connoisseurs to enjoy big red wines because of the bold flavor profiles, so finishing wine in bourbon barrels marries a bit of both worlds. Our bourbon barrel-aged Tannat always sells out quickly.
