One Variety, Many Lives: Why Pinot Noir Is Considered a Contemporary Grape Variety

From the pursuit of elegance to the enhancement of terroir, La Genisia tells the story of the grape variety that more than any other embodies the sensibility of today’s wine world

September 29, 2026 (Codevilla in Pavia, Italy) — One grape variety, multiple expressions: Traditional Method sparkling wine, rosé, and still red wine. Through this versatility, La Genisia presents the contemporary character of Pinot Noir, a variety capable of interpreting different territories and winemaking techniques while maintaining recognizability, finesse, and ageing potential. In the Oltrepò Pavese, Italy’s largest Pinot Noir-growing area by vineyard surface, the winery has developed a project based on a detailed understanding of individual vineyard parcels to determine the most suitable destination for each harvest.

On the international wine scene, the concept of a great wine is gradually moving away from a sole focus on structure, concentration, and power. Attention is shifting toward wines that are more dynamic and approachable, capable of combining depth with drinkability, freshness with ageing potential, aromatic precision with a clear sense of origin. Even oak now plays a more subtle role, supporting the wine without overshadowing the character of the grape variety. Pinot Noir naturally reflects this evolution: it does not need to display strength to express complexity and can take on different forms, from Traditional Method sparkling wine to rosé and cellar-worthy red wines, while retaining tension, elegance, and identity.

Founded in 2020 from the vision of the Torrevilla Group, La Genisia brings together twenty winegrowers and 70 hectares of vineyards located in Codevilla, Torrazza Coste, Mornico Losana, Valle del Coppa, and Val Schizzola. The project is based on a zoning study developed in collaboration with the University of Milan, which examined 110 vineyard parcels, evaluating soil composition and origin, altitude, exposure, slope, and microclimatic conditions.

Following this analysis, the most suitable vineyards were selected and are now managed according to shared agronomic protocols that are continuously updated using data collected from six weather stations located across the different climatic macro-areas. Since 2024, La Genisia has also centrally coordinated harvesting operations, determining picking teams and harvest timing to preserve grape quality and ensure full traceability throughout the supply chain.

“The greatest emotion a wine can convey is telling the story of the territory it comes from,” says Simone Fiori, winemaker at La Genisia. “Pinot Noir is our stylistic compass: it interprets terroir with precision and allows us to build a recognisable and contemporary winemaking language. Our role is not to force it into a single model, but to understand which expression can emerge from each vineyard.”

This philosophy finds concrete expression in the winery’s wines. The La Genisia Pinot Nero Extra Brut Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, produced exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes, comes from vineyards located mainly in Valle del Coppa, Val Schizzola, and the municipalities of Codevilla and Torrazza Coste, at altitudes between 200 and 450 metres above sea level. Hand harvesting, the use of only free-run juice, and a minimum of 24 months of ageing on the lees result in a Traditional Method sparkling wine whose freshness, verticality, and precision express the sparkling wine vocation of the territory.

The La Genisia Pinot Nero Rosé Brut Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG offers a different interpretation of the same grape variety, highlighting its aromatic character and its ability to combine structure, freshness, and fine perlage. These two expressions demonstrate how Pinot Noir can develop distinct profiles even within the Traditional Method category, depending on grape selection and winemaking objectives.

Red wine vinification reaches its most selective expression in the Centodieci Pinot Nero dell’Oltrepò Pavese DOC, produced from a 0.8-hectare vineyard parcel located in Mornico Losana, in the area known as Cascina Coraggioso. The vineyard lies at approximately 250 metres above sea level on calcareous marl soils of the mid-Apennine hills and was identified through the zoning project. Part of the wine ferments in open-top barriques, while ageing takes place for one year in first- and second-fill French oak barrels, followed by at least six months in bottle. The collaboration established with Tonnellerie Boutes for barrel selection aims to support the wine’s tannic finesse and ageing potential while preserving the territorial identity of Pinot Noir.

Traditional Method sparkling wine, rosé, and still red wine are therefore not separate stylistic exercises, but different outcomes of a single working philosophy. For La Genisia, the contemporary nature of Pinot Noir lies precisely in the ability to understand each vineyard and accompany its expression without standardising it: an approach in which scientific knowledge, growers’ expertise, and production precision come together to tell the many lives of a single grape variety.


ABOUT LA GENISIA
La Genisia is a young and ambitious cooperative founded in 2020 as part of a project by the Torrevilla Group. It represents the contemporary face of the Oltrepò Pavese, bringing together twenty experienced winegrowers who cultivate a total of 70 hectares of vineyards in the municipality of Codevilla, in the province of Pavia, and the surrounding area. inglese
The rolling hills of Lombardy provide the backdrop to a project guided by a clear philosophy, fostering constant dialogue between winery and growers in order to achieve high standards of quality. It is a path of steady growth, rooted in a deep awareness of the territory and in a thoughtful interpretation of its terroir.

The wines are recognisable for their fine and persistent perlage, offering a refined expression of Pinot Nero, the flagship grape variety cultivated and interpreted by the growers who are part of this venture.

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