Hitoshi Utsunomiya, a director of JSS, highlighted the importance of the registration, stating, “Even within Japan, many people are unaware that koji mold is used not only in Japanese sake but also in honkaku shochu and awamori production. Communicating that these beverages, closely tied to Japanese life and culture, are crafted with koji mold is of immense value.”
December 5, 2024 – On December 4, 2024, in Asunción, Paraguay, Traditional Knowledge and Skills of Sake Making with Koji Mold in Japan was officially registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Given that UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage already includes globally renowned alcoholic beverage traditions such as Georgia’s traditional winemaking methods, Belgium’s beer culture, and Cuba’s rum blending techniques, the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS) views this achievement as a profoundly significant recognition that deserves global acknowledgment.
Additionally, Akihiko Sukeno, president of Hishiroku Co., Ltd., a Kyoto-based company producing tane-koji (seed koji) for over 300 years, expressed his joy: “I hope this recognition further enhances global interest in Japanese alcoholic beverages. The phrase ‘with koji’ perfectly captures its essence!”
History of Koji Mold and Its Role in Japanese Alcoholic Beverage Production Koji mold has been integral to alcohol production in Japan for over a millennium. Its first documented use in brewing appeared in the 8th-century Harima-no-Kuni Fudoki, which described the use of koji in brewing Japanese sake for religious offerings. From the 14th century onward, koji also became a crucial ingredient in producing distilled spirits such as shochu and awamori. Additionally, mirin, a traditional Japanese rice-based liqueur made with koji, has recently gained international attention for its unique flavor and versatility. A shared characteristic of these beverages is the absence of natural sugars in their primary ingredients, such as rice, sweet potatoes, or barley. Koji mold produces an enzyme, called amylase, which converts starches into glucose, a necessary sugar for alcoholic fermentation. This function is akin to the role malt plays in brewing beer and distilling whiskey. Utsunomiya noted that “in addition to amylase, koji produces other enzymes that break down proteins into the amino acids that create the umami of Japanese alcoholic beverages. Umami contributes to the richness of Japanese sake and enhances its power to elevate the aroma and flavor of food. While honkaku shochu and awamori do not derive their characteristics directly from amino acids due to distillation, koji gives these drinks their distinctive smoothness without requiring prolonged aging.”
In this way, koji can be considered the cornerstone of Japanese alcoholic beverage production. Organizations Preserving and Advancing Japan’s Brewing Techniques Japan’s brewing traditions using koji mold have been supported by organizations dedicated to preserving techniques, history, and culture. For around 400 years, these organizations have functioned like guilds in Europe, with toji (master brewers) at the helm, leading teams of brewers (kurabito). Together, they have worked to pass down the knowledge and traditions of this craft across generations.
Tatsuya Ishikawa, chairman of the Japan Toji Guild Association, remarked, “It is awe inspiring and humbling to realize that, in an era when the existence of microorganisms was unknown, our predecessors developed techniques that are flawless even by today’s standards. Furthermore, these techniques are not merely technological achievements; they reflect a
culture that embodies Japan’s spirit of coexistence with nature. It is the toji who have continuously passed down this technical expertise and spiritual heritage to the present day.” The Deep Connection Between Japanese Brewing and Local Communities Another crucial factor behind the longevity of Japan’s brewing culture is its deep ties to local communities. Shinuemon Konishi, chairman of the Preservation Society of Japanese Koji based Sake Making Craftmanship, explained, “Traditional brewing requires pristine environments, abundant water resources, and collaboration with local farmers and craftsmen. This network extends to those who craft brewing tools and vessels, as well as to culinary traditions that pair with sake.”
In Japanese alcoholic beverage production, it is common for farmers to work as kurabito (brewery workers) during the off-season, strengthening the bond between breweries and agriculture. Recently, many producers have begun cultivating their own rice, sweet potatoes, or barley, not only contributing to local economies but also to environmental preservation. These efforts play a crucial role in ensuring the sustainability of this centuries-old brewing tradition.
Overcoming Challenges to Ensure the Future of Traditional Japanese Alcoholic Beverage Production
While the development and preservation of Japanese alcoholic beverage production using koji mold have been supported by the toji (master brewer) guilds and deep connections with local communities, these traditions now face significant challenges.
Konishi stated, “The number of practitioners involved in traditional brewing with koji has been declining due to lifestyle changes and aging demographics. In addition to securing new practitioners, maintaining the natural environment and sourcing raw materials within local communities are major challenges for passing this heritage to the next generation. I hope that the registration as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage inspires pride in local communities and fosters deeper dialogue among stakeholders to protect and sustain ‘traditional brewing’ practices.”
JSS expressed its commitment to leveraging this UNESCO recognition to deepen understanding of koji and its limitless potential. JSS hopes this will ultimately convey the global appeal of Japanese traditional alcoholic beverages—Japanese sake, shochu, awamori, and mirin—crafted with koji mold, thereby contributing to the diversity of global culinary cultures.
Note In the context of Traditional Knowledge and Skills of Sake-Making with Koji Mold in Japan, the term “sake-making” refers to the production of all alcoholic beverages made with koji, not just Japanese sake.
