November 8 , 2024 – On September 24, 2024, the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS) held a sake masterclass as part of the ASI Boot Camp educational program, targeting young sommeliers. The ASI Boot Camp is an annual program hosted by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale to train young sommeliers representing various countries. In addition to masterclasses on diverse wines, the program also includes sessions on sake, now considered essential knowledge among sommeliers. This time, Michael Tremblay, a representative from JSS’s North American Support Desk, served as the instructor.
The masterclass within the ASI Boot Camp covered a deep and rich content suitable for top sommeliers, including the diversity of sake-specific rice varieties, called sakamai, which are different from table rice, and koji mold, essential for producing enzymes that break starch down into sugar. One of the topics that drew a strong response from sommeliers was the complex and often misunderstood rules that govern how sake may be described, or categorized, according to Japanese law. These rules are based on two separate production criteria, first, the amount that the rice is polished, and second, whether distilled alcohol is added or not. The polishing rule says that when the rice used for the sake is polished until 60% to 50% remains, the sake can be labeled ginjo (premium), and if its rice is polished to less than 50% remaining, it can be labeled daiginjo (super-premium). The added distilled alcohol rule says that if no alcohol is added at the end of fermentation, the sake can be called junmai, roughly meaning “alcohol only from the rice fermentation.” Categorizing according to these two production criteria can get complicated, for example, if a sake is made with rice polished to 45% remaining, AND it did not have alcohol added at the end of fermentation, then the producer is allowed to label it as a junmai daiginjo sake. Sommeliers also asked whether these rules apply to nigori (cloudy sake), too. Indeed, the same categories do apply to nigori, and the fact that such a question came up demonstrates the nigori style’s growing recognition globally. Another question addressed whether adding distilled alcohol diminishes the value of a sake. Tremblay emphasized, “Even premium sakes often have added alcohol to achieve a dry and crisp flavor. Adding alcohol does not reduce its value.”
Another high-interest topic was sake and food pairing. Tremblay explained, “Sake contains five times the umami compounds of wine, making it especially appealing when paired with umami-rich foods like Parmigiano-Reggiano.” He also noted that combining different amino acids—glutamic acid in sake and inosinic acid in fish, for example—creates a synergistic umami effect. A Canadian wine shop buyer commented, “Italian cuisine tends to lean favourably with umami based flavors and the umami in a sake would be a unique compliment,” highlighting the broader pairing potential of sake across different cuisines.
Additional masterclasses were held on the 26th and 27th at the University of Cadiz, aimed at local brewers, students, and other participants. At the University of Cadiz, JSS incorporated new content focused on the similarities in composition between aged sake and the sherry that represents the Andalusian region where Cadiz is located. In fact, this May, at the 12th International Noble Rot Wine Fair (Vinoble) held in Cádiz, a sake booth was introduced for the first time, and a sister partnership between sherry and sake was announced.
Sherry can be broadly categorized into types that undergo only biological aging, such as Fino and Manzanilla, and types that also involve oxidative aging, such as Oloroso and Amontillado. Tremblay points out that the similarity between aged sake and sherry lies in this oxidative process, as Oloroso and Amontillado contain a compound called sotolon. Sotolon is a compound first discovered as a natural substance in aged sake by Japanese scientists in the 1970s. It is also found in sherry, noble rot wines, and port, and it has an aroma reminiscent of caramel and maple syrup. Sotolon develops through the Maillard reaction, which occurs during the aging process in sake and sherry, where amino acids and reducing sugars interact, as well as through the breakdown of amino acids. During the masterclass, participants sampled various types of sake, with many favoring the aged sake style. An enologist responsible for sherry cask inspections commented, “I prefer the aged sake style over fruity sake and would like to pair it with tuna and cheese.”
César Saldaña, head of the Denomination of Origin Regulatory Council for Sherry and Manzanilla de Sanlúcar, said, “Both (sherry and sake) have long histories—sherry with 3,000 years, and the sherry we know today has been made this way for 250 years. Both are traditional fermented beverages, with sherry made from grapes and sake from rice, both ranging in alcohol from 15-20%. Sake cleanses the palate and stimulates appetite, making it compatible with fish, meat, cheese, and desserts. Paired with jamón, it creates a harmony of umami.” This appeal has led many notable Japanese restaurants in Spain to feature both sherry and sake on their menus.
In 2023, Japanese sake exports totaled around 41.1 billion yen, approximately 87% of the previous year’s level, with export volumes reaching the equivalent of roughly 3.38 million cases (8.64 liters per case). This represents a 1.75-fold increase over the past decade and a 1.7-fold increase in Western Europe during the same period. Sake, with styles ranging from aromatic junmai daiginjo and junmai ginjo to full-bodied junmai and aged sakes with caramel or maple syrup nuances, offers pairing possibilities with a diverse array of global cuisines. JSS will continue its efforts to expand awareness of sake’s appeal by offering masterclasses worldwide for people of diverse cultural backgrounds.
