July 8, 2024 — Located in the north of Bourgogne and nestled in the heart of Yonne, the Chablis vineyard embodies both tradition and dynamic innovation that characterize the contemporary wine world. Its wines boast a distinctive personality stemming from various factors, notably its renowned terroir characterized by Kimmeridgian soils, a limestone formation consisting of fossilized shells dating back over 150 million years, which imparts the unique minerality found in Chablis wines. Yet, the true wealth of Chablis lies in its new generation, skillfully blending tradition with modernity, drawing inspiration from the expertise of past winemakers while boldly exploring new paths, sometimes producing wines that defy convention. In this agricultural region, viticulture plays a crucial role in keeping the younger generation rooted in their native land, particularly in Yonne, where the fame of Chablis wines, buoyed by economic prosperity, encourages some producers to market their precious nectars under their own labels. A wave of winemakers, brimming with innovative ideas and forward-thinking perspectives, is emerging with vigor. Attracted by this dynamism, new talents from diverse regions are also joining the movement, bringing their expertise and savoir-faire. This succession, more educated and female-driven than ever, promises to sustain and enrich Chablis’ wine heritage through visionary and environmentally harmonious practices.
In a landscape where nearly a quarter of farm managers are under 40, and where women hold a significant portion of these positions, the Chablis vineyard continuously reinvent itself, emphasizing inclusion, diversity, and the adoption of more environmentally respectful practices. This transformation is particularly evident in Yonne, where the area of vineyards converting to organic farming tripled between 2019 and 2022.
This movement reflects a promising dynamic, where past and future converge to rejuvenate the vineyards in Yonne, reaffirming Chablis’ status amid the foremost references in global viticulture. In 2023, the USA became the first market for Chablis wines by value.
New Face of the Chablis vineyard
While honoring the region’s ancient traditions, these young talents inject innovation and ecological awareness into the vineyard of Chablis, adapting to the new challenges of climate change. Their dedication and visionary approach ensure that Chablis wines remain prominent on the global stage while safeguarding their distinctive character and invaluable heritage.
La Chablisienne
Deeply rooted in the heart of Chablis, the cooperative La Chablisienne holds a special place within the community, commemorating its centennial last year. Since its establishment in 1923, it has been a pillar of the region’s winemaking heritage, uniting over 280 members overseeing together 1200 hectares. Renowned for its meticulous vinification, the cooperative takes pride in its method of bringing in harvests in the form of musts, ensuring complete control over the quality of the final products through all its appellations: from Petit Chablis and Chablis to Chablis Premier Cru (including Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, Montmains, Vaillons, Les Lys, Côte de Léchet, Beauroy, Fourchaume, L’Homme Mort, Vaulorent, and Les Fourneaux) and Chablis Grand Cru (such as Bougros, Preuses, Les Clos, Blanchot, and Grenouilles). A pivotal moment occurred first in 2013 when certain cuvées obtained organic agriculture certification. In 2019, the coop embarked on a new chapter in its history with fresh energy, marked notably by the arrival of a new oenologist, Estelle Roy. With a lifelong immersion in the gastronomic world, Estelle obtained her Diplôme National d’Oenologue in Dijon and delved into winemaking in prestigious regions across France. Building on her rich experience with various grape varieties, Estelle embraced a new challenge: specializing in the Chardonnay grape variety in Chablis. Joining La Chablisienne, she worked alongside Vincent Bartement, the coop acclaimed oenologist. For four years, they both strived to give a soul to each vintage, and in May 2023, Estelle naturally assumed leadership from Vincent, continuing his legacy and overseeing the promising 2023 harvest, accompanied by her team.
Domaine Servin
The first traces of the Servin family in Chablis date back to 1654. Today, the estate encompasses 37 hectares and produces the appellations Petit Chablis, Chablis, and the Climats Montée de Tonnerre, Vaillons, Butteaux, Forêts, Mont de Milieu, and Vaucoupin from Chablis Premier Cru. It owns 4 of the 7 Chablis Grand Cru Climats: Preuses, Bougros, Blanchot, and Les Clos. The domaine manages every step of the production and marketing process.
François Servin is currently at the head of the estate. Raphaël Servin, his eldest son, completed his BTS in viticulture and oenology at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune. After obtaining his diploma, he worked in Japan, New Zealand, and Chile to experience different cultures. In 2020, he joined the family estate and now assists his father as Head of Winegrowing.
Valentin Servin, François’ youngest son, is pursuing a BTSA in viticulture and oenology at the Lycée de Montpellier and is doing his traineeship at the family estate. He is expected to obtain his diploma in 2024. Before fully settling into the family estate with his father and brother, he plans to participate in the 2024 harvest in the south of France and then work abroad, particularly in Australia.
Domaine Oudin
The domaine Oudin was created in 1985 by Christiane and Jean-Claude, who left the Paris region and settled with their daughters in Chichée to develop their small family estate. They produce four Chablis wines: Chablis, Chablis “Les serres”, Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupins and Chablis Premier Cru Vaugiraut. In 2007, their eldest daughter, Nathalie Oudin, took over the estate after studying oenology and gaining experience in France and abroad. She spent two years in Australia where she mastered her English.
Her sister Isabelle Oudin joined her in 2012. Today, they cultivate 10 hectares of Chardonnay in an environmentally friendly way and are currently converting to organic farming.
Maison Simonnet-Febvre
Created in 1840, Simonnet-Febvre is one of the oldest traditional wine houses in Chablis. Taken over in 2003 by Louis Latour, Simonnet-Febvre now vinifies and sells a wide range of wines expressing the different terroir of Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois, as well as wines from the Crémant de Bourgogne appellation, the wine house’s traditional area of expertise.
Paul Espitalié has been the General Manager at Maison Simonnet-Febvre since April 2019. Originally from Cahors, he is an oenologist graduated from the Oenology Center of Toulouse. He began his career in 1992 in the heart of the southwest in the region of Gaillac where he was the technical manager of the Rabastens coop (VINOVALIES). In 2002, he joined the Grands Chais de France Group as site manager at the Maison du Vigneron in the Jura. He arrived in Chablis in 2013 where he was recruited by La Chablisienne as General Operation Manager. In 2019, he became General Manager of Maison Simonnet-Febvre.
For the past 2.5 years, he has been the co-president of the Chablis Commission of the Bourgogne Wine Board and is also the president of the Union des Grands Crus de Chablis.
