by Laura Ness
In just two short hours and 71 lots representing 14 of Sonoma’s 17 appellations, the inaugural Sonoma County Barrel Auction raised $460,000. The bidding, which included 250 guests, was orderly and straightforward, and several participants in the 2015 event offered their thoughts on the inaugural barrel auction.
David Marberger of Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Maryland, a single unit store celebrating its 25th year in business, gave the Sonoma Barrel Auction high marks. He appreciated the lower key vibe, in comparison to the Premier Napa event, which he describes as, “A ‘Who’s Who’ and who can spend the most money on lots. With the Sonoma Wine Auction, we saw an opportunity to get in on the ground floor.”
Marberger and his colleagues enjoyed the opportunity to taste all the lots, which were divided between two locations, one of which was the recently acquired Patz & Hall.
“We were so excited to taste wines that had never been offered before and will never be again. It was an invaluable experience. It wasn’t mobbed, so we got one-on-one attention from the winery reps.”
Most of the items in the first auction went for under $20k per lot, with many going between $5k and $10k per lot. With smaller five, ten and twenty case lots, they are much more accessible to smaller shops and restaurants.
Marberger and his colleagues purchased three lots, at what they perceived were very fair prices, including a 10-case lot of Ferrari-Cerrano “Jet Fuel,” a blend of 75% Malbec and 25% Tannat, which is already flying out of the store, at $75 per bottle.
They also bought a 5-case lot of 2014 Wind Racer Pinot Noir, and are looking to present this wine to customers when they can coordinate a visit from a winery rep, which was part of the deal.
The third acquisition was a 20-case lot of Rodney Strong single vineyard Cabernet. “We knew it was solid,” says Marberger. “We assumed that lot would go much higher, but we thought it would be foolish not to bid. We couldn’t let that go by!”
Marberger notes, it’s not just name brands they are buying: the wine has to be good. They’ll be back again this year and are already perusing the lot list, looking for unusual varieties, at the right price. “The auction was phenomenal for us. Full Circle has done a phenomenal job. We hope it continues year after year. But I also hope it doesn’t get too big!” Marberger concludes.
He will be one of the lucky participants in the inaugural auction invited to the “Founders Circle” dinner on the Wednesday evening prior to the Thursday tasting, which is followed by the auction on Friday.
Glenn Siegel, President of 25-year old Wine Spectrum in Sonoma, knows the region intimately, and was pleased at how wonderfully well-executed the auction was for a first time event. “It had an exciting feel, a fresh feel, and it helped bring more focus to Sonoma County Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.” He noted that there were very few white lots and hopes there are more this year, observing that Premier Napa’s 250 lots typically include “hardly any whites at all.”
“The exclusivity of the auction lots is so vast,” says Siegel. “It creates an exciting product.” One of the five lots he purchased last year was a 2014 Dutton-Goldfield vineyard designate Pinot Noir from Martinelli, certainly a hot brand. But that said, he doesn’t need to buy star power names. He says he looks for “great wines with no compromise in quality. We are powerful brand-builders here.”
What makes a great wine? “It needs to taste great and not be an intellectual wine. It hits my head and my heart at the same time.”
Director of Wine, Michael Funk, at the Polo Grill in Oklahoma, attended the Sonoma Wine Auction last year with several colleagues, including Robert Merrifield. Funk says of the event, “It was well done for the first year. The auctioneer was great! The value was certainly there.” He also commented on the appeal of the “hometown Sonoma feel.”
His team purchased 18 lots, including ones from Ravenswood and Gloria Ferrer. Well-versed in this auction lot process, the restaurant features 215 wines on their list that were purchased at previous Premier Napa wine auctions. “We saw the fantastic opportunity to hop on board with the Sonoma auction. Premier Napa is becoming hard to afford: the prices are so inflated that they have become prohibitive.”
He’s excited to get the Sonoma lots from 2015 in house, saying, “We have pent up demand. We bought stuff that is fantastic: several unknowns and hidden gems.”
This year, the Polo Grill team will be participating again, this time by phone. A large bi-annual regional event, of which they are sponsors, requires their attention during the auction timeframe. Not being able to taste the lots prior to bidding will certainly be a handicap, but they do know their customer base, and will undoubtedly make some astute calls.
Highest bidding trade accounts at the event 2015 include Robert Merrifield of Polo Grill (Tulsa, OK); The Wine House (Los Angeles, CA); Wine Spectrum (Santa Rosa, CA); Wine.com (San Francisco, CA) and Hi-Time Wine Cellars (Costa Mesa, CA).
This year’s 2016 Sonoma County Barrel Auction promises even more excitement with 75 wine lots, again in five to 20 case size. They include rare single vineyard bottlings, specific clonal selections, special blends, wines aged using special barrel regimes and joint lot wines made by collaborating wineries.
All lots were vetted by a panel of seven Master Sommeliers and Masters of Wine.
For 2016 as in 2015, each lot, which bears the official Sonoma County Barrel Auction label, will not be found in the market except by the wine seller who secured it at the auction, making them true originals. Whether they are featured on exclusive restaurant wine lists or find themselves in the cellars of ultra-premium wine collectors, these are highly attractive one-of-a-kind purchases, each with a unique story.
This year’s Sonoma County Barrel Auction event is open only to the licensed trade, including retailers, restaurateurs and wholesalers, by invitation only and will take place at Vintners Inn in Santa Rosa on Friday, April 29, 2016.
Previews of the “never before, never again” 75 lots will be offered at two tastings scheduled for Thursday, April 28, at Comstock Winery (10 til 1 p.m.) and at Pellegrini Winery (1:30 til 4:30 p.m.). Both preview sessions will include seminars, food pairings and auction lot wines as well as finished wines.
